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My eyes are blue. Does that matter, too?
If the respectable magazine had explained their artistic view and/or intentions of addressing the complexity of racism, there probably would not have had faced such heated backlash from the media. I find it interesting that French Vogue insisted on being unaware that their main spread would cause any controversy. Even if their intentions were purely for artistic reasons, a magazine of such history should understand the cultural indications of such a decision. Jezebel was right, even if France didn’t have the same history of minstrel shows and the civil rights movement as the US, they should have been expecting the negative uproar that ensued. Don’t forget France’s own history with Algeria. I feel that no matter what their intentions were, they should have understood the consequences. Especially because French Vogue is a major fashion magazine, with a large viewership and loyal readers, they should have considered what type of audience they were addressing. They should have known that their prestige in the media may wrongly influence their audience into believing that blackface or any racial portrayal is still politically correct.
Why didn't they just have a black model or something?
A major issue in the West as regards to racial homogenization is the concept of "othering", or basically, making White people normal and everyone else "different" by default. I suspect part of the issue with this shoot is the same problem with much of the fashion industry today- they use a highly pigeonholed version of "perfect" beauty and paint themselves into a corner because very few people even exist that are anywhere near that level. Even mega-hot actresses like Drew Barrymore regularly get their image shopped to make them look better because it's such an absurd standard.
The fact of the matter is, Black women are not White women with a different skin tone. They have a completely different genetic heritage, history, and sexual metaphor, and this is whitewashed when you pull stuff like this. You're implying that there is a single, universal standard of accepted "beauty" and that even Black women can attain it. Even though as a simple matter of phenotypes, very few Black women, and very few women in general, can actually do this. For a white woman to be painted Black and then put up in that ridiculous get-up is implying a value norm about African and diaspora culture that simply doesn't exist.